Ave train ride was super easy and we didn't waste any time. Taxi'd to the hotel, dropped off the bags and headed out to see some sights. The center of the universe here in Seville is the Cathedral. If you ever get lost (and you will....) go back to center, the Cathedral and you should be able to find your way. We went straight to the Cathedral so could get my bearings and it's exactly as I remember. Massive, very 'old' but a powerful presence. There are ladies who circle the church holding fresh rosemary and 'offering' them to you as good luck. Then they accost you for money and are very aggressive about it. So far only once has one of them gotten too close, in my space and after 3 or 4 loud NO's did I have to give her a little shove. Can't wait for more!
I remembered there were 2 pastry shops with large and long cases that went on forever filled with Andalusian goodies. Stuff I'd never seen before. Found one of them but kept walking cause we were thirsty and looking for something to drink. Did I mention there is booze everywhere all the time? Wallah we came across the other pastry shop! It was across the street from a place Amanda and I had lunch one afternoon and we had the most amazing bottle of wine - El Buzo. Anyway we stepped into the pastry shop, Jud ordered a pitcher of sangria and I went to pick out some goodies. Jud announcing he was not hungry again......riiiight...... As soon as I sat down, he was all over them! Some kind of yellow cake with chocolate frosting cut into a rectangle and this other thing shaped like an giant orange slice, 2 layers of cake with orange goo in the middle drenched in sugar glaze. That was lunch..... Managed to accidentally make my way into then kitchen looking for the bathroom. That caused a stir, but I immediately knew I was in the wrong place!
Zooming from sangria and sugar we walked to the bull ring where you can tour the Matador museum and the bull ring. The tour guide walks you through the history of bull fighting, the traditions, superstitions and eventually into the bull ring itself. Another overwhelming site. Bull fights run from April through the 2nd week of October so there was no chance of actually seeing one.
It was 90 degrees, hot, sunny and time for a siesta. Everything is within decent walking distance which makes things easy. Finding the hotel - not so much. The streets are narrow, most of them don't cars. Scooters, yes and you need to make sure and find an alcove, steps or plant yourself up against the wall of a building so you don't get hit. Our hotel is in the deep bowels of the Santa Cruz neighborhood. The twistiest maze of streets encountered so far. Getting lost is part of the beauty cause there are little restaurants everywhere. Stop, have a cerveza, a nosh and ask for directions. English is definitely not spoken here so well - they just yell something loudly and you have no idea what they just said. After about an hour of maneuvering through the cobblestone maze we finally found the hotel. I can not even begin to describe the room. You will need to wait for photos. But instead of climbing over Jud in a double bed and taking 1 step to the bathroom the size of a broom closet, we have a giant bed, room and the potty is nicer then the one I have at home.
We got out for dinner around 8ish when most people are venturing out for the evening. Again, the streets are full of people outside, sidewalks full of tables, people eating, standing, drinking and having an overall good time. We came upon a little place which caught our eye so we sat down. To clarify, in Spain - you don't need to check in with a cranky host/hostess, you pick your seat and just sit down. It's yours and someone shows up to take your drink order.
We ordered oxtail stew, garlic prawns, grilled goat cheese w/honey and bacon wrapped tenderloin on sticks. Another incredible meal.
Seville is for strolling so we did just that for the next few hours.
Today is another sunny and 90 degree day. Stay tuned!
Sent from my iPad
Monday, October 31, 2011
Sunday, October 30, 2011
On The Way To Seville
It's been a few days but I finally have some down time when I can write. We have been on the move constantly!
Friday nite we went to a place for dinner called El Calderon. It's a place that came highly recommended for it's rice dishes - namely paella. So we dove right in an ordered chicken and (mystery) seafood paella. Absolutely incredible. Our server spoke zero English but again, pointing comes in handy. The meal ended with this golden butterscotch tasting syrupy after dinner drink - no idea what it was and no one was able to tell us. It was in an unmarked bottle and probably a homemade concoction created in someone's bathtub.
We continued wandering the streets of Santa Ana Plaza. It was filled with the Friday dance clubbers. Techno blasting through the club doors into the streets. Big hair, ciggies and lots of heels. Right out of the 80's. At 2am the streets were more mobbed then ever. People still having dinner in the Plaza with lights and heat lamps. Does anyone sleep in this country?
Saturday we secured our car for when we return from Seville and begin the driving portion of this adventure. It was sunny and 70 so we were able to have a bite and a beer outside on the streets. A place called El Brilliente - Amanda and I ate there a few times. Same cranky waiter doing a drive by order and slamming your cerveza and food down on a table the size of a postage stamp. Part of the charm... Jud claimed he was not hungry but when they brought the grilled pork with melting manchego on a fresh baguette slathered with olive oil...he could not resist. Then we toured the Royal Palace. 2200 rooms of which only 24 are permitted to be seen. A gaudy monstrosity. One of the rooms was completely made out of porcelain. The King and Queens bedrooms were in separate wings. Hows that work?
Then the afternoon fun began. Wandering aimlessly back towards our hotel. Really had no idea where we were but kept following the narrow zig zagging streets stopping for a tapas and drinks along the way. Jud finally got to witness the 'let's order a glass of wine and the waiter brings the whole bottle and puts it on your table'. So, what you do? You drink the bottle!
We were up and out early this morning (I think it's Sunday) and now on the Ave train to Seville. Ave is a high speed mag lev train that will go about 200mph. I wish this iPad had a camera so I could take his picture. Face pressed up against the window like a little kid.....he likes the castles.
Seville was one of my favorite places. Very Don Juan like - flamenco dancing, Spanish guitar players in the streets, beautiful cathedrals and the bull ring.
Spain is full of little details which immediately catch your attention. It's incredibly clean. No trash and virtually no street people. Policia everywhere - cars, bikes and motorcycles - driving on the sidewalk if they want to. Every bill comes on a plate. Coffee spoons are tiny and used specifically for coffee. Every table has a cloth and water is often served in a wine glass Everyone drinks cerveza at all times of day - even for breakfast. The ladies are dressed to the 9's all day at every age and they are up late eating and drinking. The pharmacy is still open at midnight with their doors wide open. The bathroom lights come on automatically -but if you are in there long enough, they turn off. Good thing there are pictures of girls and boys on the bathroom doors cause you would never know which one to pick. And frankly, no one seems to care who uses what anyway. You order a drink, you get a free tapas. One could make it through the day virtually paying for no food but you would be sh$t faced.
Most doors open opposite of what we think they would do. I'm pushing when I should be pulling.
I've learned a few more words and phrases by accident. No bueno salida. No good exit. I manage to find myself trying to exit where you can only enter. Seems to be a big no no here!
Gotta go. We are almost there and I'm getting a little woozy writing and going backwards at 200 mph!
Sent from my iPad
Friday nite we went to a place for dinner called El Calderon. It's a place that came highly recommended for it's rice dishes - namely paella. So we dove right in an ordered chicken and (mystery) seafood paella. Absolutely incredible. Our server spoke zero English but again, pointing comes in handy. The meal ended with this golden butterscotch tasting syrupy after dinner drink - no idea what it was and no one was able to tell us. It was in an unmarked bottle and probably a homemade concoction created in someone's bathtub.
We continued wandering the streets of Santa Ana Plaza. It was filled with the Friday dance clubbers. Techno blasting through the club doors into the streets. Big hair, ciggies and lots of heels. Right out of the 80's. At 2am the streets were more mobbed then ever. People still having dinner in the Plaza with lights and heat lamps. Does anyone sleep in this country?
Saturday we secured our car for when we return from Seville and begin the driving portion of this adventure. It was sunny and 70 so we were able to have a bite and a beer outside on the streets. A place called El Brilliente - Amanda and I ate there a few times. Same cranky waiter doing a drive by order and slamming your cerveza and food down on a table the size of a postage stamp. Part of the charm... Jud claimed he was not hungry but when they brought the grilled pork with melting manchego on a fresh baguette slathered with olive oil...he could not resist. Then we toured the Royal Palace. 2200 rooms of which only 24 are permitted to be seen. A gaudy monstrosity. One of the rooms was completely made out of porcelain. The King and Queens bedrooms were in separate wings. Hows that work?
Then the afternoon fun began. Wandering aimlessly back towards our hotel. Really had no idea where we were but kept following the narrow zig zagging streets stopping for a tapas and drinks along the way. Jud finally got to witness the 'let's order a glass of wine and the waiter brings the whole bottle and puts it on your table'. So, what you do? You drink the bottle!
We were up and out early this morning (I think it's Sunday) and now on the Ave train to Seville. Ave is a high speed mag lev train that will go about 200mph. I wish this iPad had a camera so I could take his picture. Face pressed up against the window like a little kid.....he likes the castles.
Seville was one of my favorite places. Very Don Juan like - flamenco dancing, Spanish guitar players in the streets, beautiful cathedrals and the bull ring.
Spain is full of little details which immediately catch your attention. It's incredibly clean. No trash and virtually no street people. Policia everywhere - cars, bikes and motorcycles - driving on the sidewalk if they want to. Every bill comes on a plate. Coffee spoons are tiny and used specifically for coffee. Every table has a cloth and water is often served in a wine glass Everyone drinks cerveza at all times of day - even for breakfast. The ladies are dressed to the 9's all day at every age and they are up late eating and drinking. The pharmacy is still open at midnight with their doors wide open. The bathroom lights come on automatically -but if you are in there long enough, they turn off. Good thing there are pictures of girls and boys on the bathroom doors cause you would never know which one to pick. And frankly, no one seems to care who uses what anyway. You order a drink, you get a free tapas. One could make it through the day virtually paying for no food but you would be sh$t faced.
Most doors open opposite of what we think they would do. I'm pushing when I should be pulling.
I've learned a few more words and phrases by accident. No bueno salida. No good exit. I manage to find myself trying to exit where you can only enter. Seems to be a big no no here!
Gotta go. We are almost there and I'm getting a little woozy writing and going backwards at 200 mph!
Sent from my iPad
Friday, October 28, 2011
Rioja and Chocolate Cake.
Thursday night turned out to be quite fun. We went out way too 'touristy' early but managed to pick our way through the narrow complicated streets finding busy tapas bars filled with locals and stay out way too late. The beauty of tapas hopping is looking for places loaded with noisy atmosphere, people drinking, eating and generally a futbal game on TV. We must have hit 6 or 7....I think.... You get a drink, tapa, throw your trash on the floor, P and move on. (I love this country!). When you order a drink beer or wine the bring you a complimentary nosh of tapas - every time! We basically ate for free. Beer and wine are about $3/ glass and both are incredible. We wound up talking to a local couple for several hours. Well, kinda talking. We all did alot of pointing, nodding and trying to interpret what one another was saying. It was a lot of fun! And it started all over a giant leg of pig harnessed in the carving contraption with the hoof still on.
We did not get moving till almost 11 am today. It was catch upon the sleep time. We made our way to the Prado museum. A giant fortress built in the early 1500's housing some of the worlds most rare art collection. A lot of Renaissance artists, religious themes, boobs everywhere and somewhat disturbing themes too. But that's art I suppose. I can't even draw anything recognizable when playing pictionary so what do I know! Wound our way to the Plaza Mayor fir some lunch (ham, calamari and manchego) beer and wine. Then walked back to the hotel stopping a few times for more cervesa Rioja and eventually some chocolate cake.
Took a 4 hour siesta and now we are attempting to get ourselves together for the evening. It's about 9 pm now.
Jud has requested a 'meal' style sit down dinner. Not easy to find - and finding anything 'green' is nearly impossible. We did get a serving of broad beens with ham as one of our complimentary tapas (yuk) Jud ate them all!! I think he's had enough ham, standing up to eat and missing veggies. I of course will happily graze my way through this entire vacation!
Till tomorrow - TTFN!
Sent from my iPad
We did not get moving till almost 11 am today. It was catch upon the sleep time. We made our way to the Prado museum. A giant fortress built in the early 1500's housing some of the worlds most rare art collection. A lot of Renaissance artists, religious themes, boobs everywhere and somewhat disturbing themes too. But that's art I suppose. I can't even draw anything recognizable when playing pictionary so what do I know! Wound our way to the Plaza Mayor fir some lunch (ham, calamari and manchego) beer and wine. Then walked back to the hotel stopping a few times for more cervesa Rioja and eventually some chocolate cake.
Took a 4 hour siesta and now we are attempting to get ourselves together for the evening. It's about 9 pm now.
Jud has requested a 'meal' style sit down dinner. Not easy to find - and finding anything 'green' is nearly impossible. We did get a serving of broad beens with ham as one of our complimentary tapas (yuk) Jud ate them all!! I think he's had enough ham, standing up to eat and missing veggies. I of course will happily graze my way through this entire vacation!
Till tomorrow - TTFN!
Sent from my iPad
Thursday, October 27, 2011
Hello Madrid!
Arrived @ 130 am home time - was 730 am here. 6 hour time difference. Turned out to be a beautiful day. Went to the hotel,(that's a funny story) dropped off our bags, got a double shot of espresso and headed to a museum - the Renia Sofia. Lots of Dali and Picasso's famous Guerneka painting. Its a creepy big old hospital turned into a museum - that in itself is an exhibit. Wasting no time and working on 2 hrs sleep! Its 3 pm here so its siesta time now. Will nappie a few hours, shower and hit the town for some traditional grub and wine. So many little places to grab a tapas, wine and move on to the next and hopefully find our way back to the hotel. And also hopefully keep J awake and upright on the bar stools since dinner generally does not get going till after 10 pm.
Tomorrow we plan to hit the Prado museum early.
Hotel funny story - its on a tiny cobblestone side street where 1 car can barley get down. Most of the side streets are like that - intertwined like a maze. The hotel or hostal is on the 3rd floor of an old building. The elevator is this tinky thing that looks like a phone booth, 2 gated doors and its 'open' shafted. Something out of a 1920 horror movie and incredibly small. J would not get in it! I did, was not schleping bags 3 flights of stairs!! He did eventually get in it with me - we could both barley fit and he had to crouch the whole time.
Our room is very clean but very small. About the size of a sm bedroom. Double bed. 1 giant long pillow. J's feet are handing off the bottom-lol.
Enough for now - I'm deliriously tired....
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
Tomorrow we plan to hit the Prado museum early.
Hotel funny story - its on a tiny cobblestone side street where 1 car can barley get down. Most of the side streets are like that - intertwined like a maze. The hotel or hostal is on the 3rd floor of an old building. The elevator is this tinky thing that looks like a phone booth, 2 gated doors and its 'open' shafted. Something out of a 1920 horror movie and incredibly small. J would not get in it! I did, was not schleping bags 3 flights of stairs!! He did eventually get in it with me - we could both barley fit and he had to crouch the whole time.
Our room is very clean but very small. About the size of a sm bedroom. Double bed. 1 giant long pillow. J's feet are handing off the bottom-lol.
Enough for now - I'm deliriously tired....
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
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