Bilbao is an old little town nestled within the mountains. Mountains mountains mountains and then plop - Bilbao in the middle. The main attraction is the Guggenheim museum and I purposely chose the hotel directly across the street for convenience. Certainly not expecting the WOW factor we experienced. Our room faced the museum and had an open shower and a Phillip Stark free standing tub which was all encased in glass so you could shower/tub and have a fantastic view of the museum at night with a bottle of wine. The entire hotel was uber modern and artsy fartsy to the max. But at the same time was wam, cozy and inviting. We immediately hit the streets for some wine/cervesa and some tapas. The food and the language begins to change when you enter Basque territory. Spanish phrases like 'hola' become buenos dais or even hello is acceptable. Spelling is different and many street signs and billboards show spanish AND basque. I can wing my way through spanish but basque has no resemblance of recognizable english words. Stellar pointing skills are a must! Tapas everywhere and it's not like what you see in America. What we call tapas pales in comparison and frankly is an insult to the fine art and taste of these little masterpieces. Plate after plate piled high and extending the entire length of the bar - every plate different and beautifully displayed. Only real life experience can make you understand the real thing but photos will have to do cause there is no justice in further attempting to explain.
We went from bar to bar having a few samples of tapas and beverage. We came upon a young American couple who were traveling with some friends who were from Spain. They were from NY and actually moving to Taiwan after their vacation. Their Spanish friend was hilarious and spoke fairly good english They has obviously been drinking all day and he was concentrating very hard enunciating his words all the while bobbing and weaving to stay upright.
They asked us to stay on with them for more libations but I thought it was better if we went back to the swanky hotel bar where we were only an elevator ride away from being horizontal.
I ordered a Cosmo and Jud ordered a Jack n coke. It's different here when you order a mixed drink. They actually bring (on a tray of course) the glass filled with ice, a bottle of coke and the entire bottle of JD. The glass goes down on the table, the JD is poured............ (I counted to at least 6) then let's top it off with a whiff of coke. All in a giant goblet or lets call this one a challis. 4 of these later it was time for nite nite termite - I think we finished the bottle.
We were at the Guggenheim promptly at 11 am after some much needed coffee and a little pastry and potato tortilla. The building itself is the attraction and the 'art'. The photos will show its majestic form and presence and literally directly across the street from the hotel. The museum is filled with sculptures and abstract paintings. A giant piece of metal standing upright or a blank piece of paper in a frame is a struggle for me to appreciate as 'art' but the world thinks it is so I try and be open minded about it. But frankly, I don't get it.
Check out was not till 3 pm (imagine that!) so we did not get on our way to San Sebastian till later in the day. It's only about a 1.5 hour drive so there was no need to hurry out. The drive to San Seb was interesting.... High mountains, some with huge peaks, twisty highways and lots of tunnels. So far, our driving and finding our destinations has been easy. Today - not so much..... Remember, the language changes so what we printed in Spanish did not match the Basque language and the exits are not in chronological order. 5, 3, 8. - where is 7??? To make a long story short we were lost, no one speaks English, the roads are not marked well, there are more of those damn roundabouts, the traffic lights go red yellow green (go) green yellow red (stop), and don't forget to stop at the pedestrian crossings every 100 feet, we are driving around in circles and all I could remember is just get to the water - we need to be near the ocean. So we get to the ocean and I see the hotel where Amanda and I stayed - Hotel Parma. Thats good. I know we are at least in the right neighborhood. The problem is (and there are a few), we need to get fuel, return the rental car, and our hotel is down in the deep dark bowels of the Old Town. No roads there....it's all walking. We decide to just find a parking garage, find the hotel and deal with the car later and probably just return it the next day. We are both fried and thirsty.
Finding the hotel or pension was easy - we had a good map and I remembered my way around enough to get us pointed in the right direction. Pension Edorta is buried deep in the Old Town section where there are only pedestrian streets and the tapas bars and shops are plentiful. Amanda and I spent most of our time here so it made sense to just stay where the action is. A Pension is similar to a Hostel. But at this place our room and bed are much bigger. Thank God cause we almost killed each other in Madrid in such a small space for several days. I was prepared to change hotels if this room turned out to be as small as the Hostel in Madrid.
Tomorrow we will attempt to return the car but for now it's Friday night in San Sebastian and it's time to get out on the town!
Sent from my iPad
Saturday, November 5, 2011
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Playing Catch Up!
Tuesday was our last day in Seville. We slept in since we were up way late and there was music, singing and dancing in our street for most of the night. Big street party that went on till almost 3 am.
We spent the day roaming the streets and getting lost. Well, you are never really 'lost' cause the town is not that big. You either run into the river or the Cathedral and then you know where you are. And there is always a friendly non threatening person to help if you're completely confused.
Pastry and espresso for breakfast - eggs with tuna/tomato and Andalusian gazpacho for lunch. Sangria all around. Yes the food is weird and the diet is hard on the American innards. But these people eat pastry, drink espresso, sugar, sugar, sugar, bread, cheese, olive oil and ham, smoke like chimneys, drink wine or beer at every meal (even breakfast) eat dinner at damn near midnight and are not overweight. Trying to keep up with them is a huge challenge and a hell of a lot of fun!
After siesta we decided to stick close to the hotel for our evening adventure. After all, the party seems to be only steps away and I was hoping not to have to pull a map out or leave peanuts along the way so we could find our way back after multiple libations.
We sat down outside in a courtyard loaded with fully set tables - china, silverware, wine and water glasses. What- glass - outside? Of course! Drinking anything from plastic especially wine is a travesty!
The waiters are always men. The ladies are often behind the bar or sometimes no where to be found. Maybe behind the pastry counter but food service appears to be a mans thing here.
I had the baby lamb chops, Jud had the roast suckling pig, bottle of wine and then a nightcap. Off to bed as we had an early train back to Madrid where we picked up a car and headed to Leon.
While the rest of you are sleeping and it's already the next day here, we were up, out and back on the Ave ( ahh-vay) train. It was a Sunday when we took the Ave train to Seville and our coach was empty - we had the whole thing to ourselves. Heading back to Madrid it was a Wednesday. The coach was full of business travelers, cell phones ringing, talking, some shouting and newspapers rustling. All the things I've been so happy to get away from. We've not turned on the TV, read the news or discussed our 'in common' profession for a week. I could not wait to get off the train.....
Renting a car was really simple. A passport, drivers license and a credit card. Sign on the dotted line, here's your English copy, the keys, a map, your gas cap location and off you go.
Getting out of Madrid was a little tricky but once we were on the highway, it was easy. Lots of service stations, pottys and places to grab a bite. The first part of our driving adventure is from Madrid to Leon. About 200 miles north west towards the coast. Remnants of old castles, churches, fortresses and look out towers all along. Grapes growing to the left and cattle grazing to the right. Mountains all around and most of the land is untouched.
We arrived in Leon smack dab in the middle of siesta time which was good cause there was little traffic. Jud dutifully had printed detailed road maps so we could navigate our way in and out of the town. Road signs were sparse and they love their roundabouts. The old Jersey circles as we know them. And who needs lines on the roads - cars just go wherever. Good thing we are driving something the size of a roller-skate.
We are staying at Parador San Marco. It's an old monastery turned Hotel. There are 100 Paradors all over Spain. Old castles, forts, prisons and monasteries turned into 3, 4, and 5 star hotels. Think of the Royal Palace on steroids with crosses, statues of various saints and the ability to freely explore every room nook and cranny. In the dark using a cell phone for light. You will have to wait for the photos - I can't even begin to explain it further.
Leon is a old traditional town. Not much to really explore here except the local cuisine and wine. There is an Old Town section filled with tapas bars and locals but it was raining and at least a 20 minute walk. Jud will be tapas terrorized over the next few days so we decided it would be better to have a sit down meal at the Parador. The bar opens at 7 pm and the restaurant at 9 pm. Old school - siesta, drink no earlier then 7 and eat no earlier then 9. It will be like this the remainder of our trip. Welcome to the north.
After wine, cervesa, manhattan and manchego it was time to sit down in the dining room. Mealtime is more of an event in the north then any other place I remember. It's meant to be savored slowly and with lots of wine, wine and more wine. And when you think you just can't take it anymore, have another glass. At this juncture, Rioja is running through my veins and Betty Ford is only a phone call away.
The dining room is like a banquet hall. Black and white checkered floor, table clothes and all the male servers in black formal dress. The menu is loaded with regional dishes and they have a pre fix menu of nothing but regional dishes which is what I opted for. Jud ordered the black pudding and the veal cheek loin. I had leeks w/olive oil vinaigrette, pumpkin cream soup w/local cheese curds, roast breast of veal and rice pudding. One of the most amazing meals of my life. 2 hour or so later we stumbled through the Parador finding more shrines, passageways, outdoor courtyard with ginormous stone columns. The only rule - don't smoke and close the outside doors. Otherwise, have at it.
Our room was very nice, hot shower with elephant style water pressure, finally a (double) sink with a ledge so my stuff was not constantly falling on the floor, 2 double beds pushed together and a terrace.
Breakfast was included so up and out we were for coffee and more regional delicacies. You gotta love a country that starts their buffet line with pastry first it's 2/3 of the breakfast offering.
We are back in the roller skate today heading for Bilbao (200 miles) going north east of Leon into the mountainous Basque region. Jud's driving. I'm typing, taking pictures and clutching the map. Destination Silken Hotel across from the Guggenheim.
Gotta go We are almost there and I have to start paying attention. Adios!
Sent from my iPad
We spent the day roaming the streets and getting lost. Well, you are never really 'lost' cause the town is not that big. You either run into the river or the Cathedral and then you know where you are. And there is always a friendly non threatening person to help if you're completely confused.
Pastry and espresso for breakfast - eggs with tuna/tomato and Andalusian gazpacho for lunch. Sangria all around. Yes the food is weird and the diet is hard on the American innards. But these people eat pastry, drink espresso, sugar, sugar, sugar, bread, cheese, olive oil and ham, smoke like chimneys, drink wine or beer at every meal (even breakfast) eat dinner at damn near midnight and are not overweight. Trying to keep up with them is a huge challenge and a hell of a lot of fun!
After siesta we decided to stick close to the hotel for our evening adventure. After all, the party seems to be only steps away and I was hoping not to have to pull a map out or leave peanuts along the way so we could find our way back after multiple libations.
We sat down outside in a courtyard loaded with fully set tables - china, silverware, wine and water glasses. What- glass - outside? Of course! Drinking anything from plastic especially wine is a travesty!
The waiters are always men. The ladies are often behind the bar or sometimes no where to be found. Maybe behind the pastry counter but food service appears to be a mans thing here.
I had the baby lamb chops, Jud had the roast suckling pig, bottle of wine and then a nightcap. Off to bed as we had an early train back to Madrid where we picked up a car and headed to Leon.
While the rest of you are sleeping and it's already the next day here, we were up, out and back on the Ave ( ahh-vay) train. It was a Sunday when we took the Ave train to Seville and our coach was empty - we had the whole thing to ourselves. Heading back to Madrid it was a Wednesday. The coach was full of business travelers, cell phones ringing, talking, some shouting and newspapers rustling. All the things I've been so happy to get away from. We've not turned on the TV, read the news or discussed our 'in common' profession for a week. I could not wait to get off the train.....
Renting a car was really simple. A passport, drivers license and a credit card. Sign on the dotted line, here's your English copy, the keys, a map, your gas cap location and off you go.
Getting out of Madrid was a little tricky but once we were on the highway, it was easy. Lots of service stations, pottys and places to grab a bite. The first part of our driving adventure is from Madrid to Leon. About 200 miles north west towards the coast. Remnants of old castles, churches, fortresses and look out towers all along. Grapes growing to the left and cattle grazing to the right. Mountains all around and most of the land is untouched.
We arrived in Leon smack dab in the middle of siesta time which was good cause there was little traffic. Jud dutifully had printed detailed road maps so we could navigate our way in and out of the town. Road signs were sparse and they love their roundabouts. The old Jersey circles as we know them. And who needs lines on the roads - cars just go wherever. Good thing we are driving something the size of a roller-skate.
We are staying at Parador San Marco. It's an old monastery turned Hotel. There are 100 Paradors all over Spain. Old castles, forts, prisons and monasteries turned into 3, 4, and 5 star hotels. Think of the Royal Palace on steroids with crosses, statues of various saints and the ability to freely explore every room nook and cranny. In the dark using a cell phone for light. You will have to wait for the photos - I can't even begin to explain it further.
Leon is a old traditional town. Not much to really explore here except the local cuisine and wine. There is an Old Town section filled with tapas bars and locals but it was raining and at least a 20 minute walk. Jud will be tapas terrorized over the next few days so we decided it would be better to have a sit down meal at the Parador. The bar opens at 7 pm and the restaurant at 9 pm. Old school - siesta, drink no earlier then 7 and eat no earlier then 9. It will be like this the remainder of our trip. Welcome to the north.
After wine, cervesa, manhattan and manchego it was time to sit down in the dining room. Mealtime is more of an event in the north then any other place I remember. It's meant to be savored slowly and with lots of wine, wine and more wine. And when you think you just can't take it anymore, have another glass. At this juncture, Rioja is running through my veins and Betty Ford is only a phone call away.
The dining room is like a banquet hall. Black and white checkered floor, table clothes and all the male servers in black formal dress. The menu is loaded with regional dishes and they have a pre fix menu of nothing but regional dishes which is what I opted for. Jud ordered the black pudding and the veal cheek loin. I had leeks w/olive oil vinaigrette, pumpkin cream soup w/local cheese curds, roast breast of veal and rice pudding. One of the most amazing meals of my life. 2 hour or so later we stumbled through the Parador finding more shrines, passageways, outdoor courtyard with ginormous stone columns. The only rule - don't smoke and close the outside doors. Otherwise, have at it.
Our room was very nice, hot shower with elephant style water pressure, finally a (double) sink with a ledge so my stuff was not constantly falling on the floor, 2 double beds pushed together and a terrace.
Breakfast was included so up and out we were for coffee and more regional delicacies. You gotta love a country that starts their buffet line with pastry first it's 2/3 of the breakfast offering.
We are back in the roller skate today heading for Bilbao (200 miles) going north east of Leon into the mountainous Basque region. Jud's driving. I'm typing, taking pictures and clutching the map. Destination Silken Hotel across from the Guggenheim.
Gotta go We are almost there and I have to start paying attention. Adios!
Sent from my iPad
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Oh Butter Where Art Thou
Monday was beautiful - 80 and abundant sunshine. We strolled to the Cathedral early to beat the crowds. There was already a line at 10 am but figured either wait now or wait later. They shuffle you through gift shop #1 in case you want to purchase something in advance like rosary beads or whatnot. The Cathedral is massive. Every room and alcove more beautiful and ornate then the next. Jud climbed the bell tower while I chilled in one of the shrine benches - 330 feet up and a 360 view of the city. I had already done it and remember the miserable climb so I opted to sit this one out.
Then we walked across the bridge to a neighborhood called Triana. The river side of the street is lined with checkered table cloths and chalkboard menus of the days eats and the other side of the street holds the kitchen. Servers run back and forth across the street between table and kitchen avoiding the cars, scooters and bikes. We sat outside going from place to place tasting and soaking the local neighborhood flavor. We were entertained by an impromptu break out of flamingo dancing and Spanish guitar strumming. All for a donation of course but certainly worth dropping some change into their bag. We came upon the couple again when we got kinda sideways on one of the back streets. They were divvying up the days money take. Funny.
We returned to the other side of the bridge, stopped for some coffee and pastry (of course) and then headed to the shopping district. Came upon an open market and open stands filled with chorizo, cheese, ham, bread and more pastries. Temping but we passed and opted to head deep into another corn maze of narrow streets and shops. It was about 2 pm and guess what?! Siesta time! Closed! Had to laugh - it was the first time we've bumped into the tradition of the siesta closing.
After our seista we headed out for dinner around 9 pm, prime time! Another amazing meal and wine. I had lamb- Jud had pasta and we shared a super old bottle of Rioja to celebrate Jud's birthday.
Tonight the streets were full of people and street singers playing spanish guitar, tambourines and singing Spanish songs. Even back in our room we were serenaded for hours listening to the singing and music. I think they finally wore themselves out about 2:30 am.....
One of the coolest things I think about traveling is emerging yourself as a local. The beer might be warm, no ice and there is not a pad or stick of butter to be found in Seville and I won't even go into the bathroom situation here in the south..... But the point is to step inside their world and take it all in.
Today (Tuesday) is All Saints Day. The church bells have been ringing constantly all morning. Can't wait to see what today brings.
Sent from my iPad
Then we walked across the bridge to a neighborhood called Triana. The river side of the street is lined with checkered table cloths and chalkboard menus of the days eats and the other side of the street holds the kitchen. Servers run back and forth across the street between table and kitchen avoiding the cars, scooters and bikes. We sat outside going from place to place tasting and soaking the local neighborhood flavor. We were entertained by an impromptu break out of flamingo dancing and Spanish guitar strumming. All for a donation of course but certainly worth dropping some change into their bag. We came upon the couple again when we got kinda sideways on one of the back streets. They were divvying up the days money take. Funny.
We returned to the other side of the bridge, stopped for some coffee and pastry (of course) and then headed to the shopping district. Came upon an open market and open stands filled with chorizo, cheese, ham, bread and more pastries. Temping but we passed and opted to head deep into another corn maze of narrow streets and shops. It was about 2 pm and guess what?! Siesta time! Closed! Had to laugh - it was the first time we've bumped into the tradition of the siesta closing.
After our seista we headed out for dinner around 9 pm, prime time! Another amazing meal and wine. I had lamb- Jud had pasta and we shared a super old bottle of Rioja to celebrate Jud's birthday.
Tonight the streets were full of people and street singers playing spanish guitar, tambourines and singing Spanish songs. Even back in our room we were serenaded for hours listening to the singing and music. I think they finally wore themselves out about 2:30 am.....
One of the coolest things I think about traveling is emerging yourself as a local. The beer might be warm, no ice and there is not a pad or stick of butter to be found in Seville and I won't even go into the bathroom situation here in the south..... But the point is to step inside their world and take it all in.
Today (Tuesday) is All Saints Day. The church bells have been ringing constantly all morning. Can't wait to see what today brings.
Sent from my iPad
Monday, October 31, 2011
No Bull
Ave train ride was super easy and we didn't waste any time. Taxi'd to the hotel, dropped off the bags and headed out to see some sights. The center of the universe here in Seville is the Cathedral. If you ever get lost (and you will....) go back to center, the Cathedral and you should be able to find your way. We went straight to the Cathedral so could get my bearings and it's exactly as I remember. Massive, very 'old' but a powerful presence. There are ladies who circle the church holding fresh rosemary and 'offering' them to you as good luck. Then they accost you for money and are very aggressive about it. So far only once has one of them gotten too close, in my space and after 3 or 4 loud NO's did I have to give her a little shove. Can't wait for more!
I remembered there were 2 pastry shops with large and long cases that went on forever filled with Andalusian goodies. Stuff I'd never seen before. Found one of them but kept walking cause we were thirsty and looking for something to drink. Did I mention there is booze everywhere all the time? Wallah we came across the other pastry shop! It was across the street from a place Amanda and I had lunch one afternoon and we had the most amazing bottle of wine - El Buzo. Anyway we stepped into the pastry shop, Jud ordered a pitcher of sangria and I went to pick out some goodies. Jud announcing he was not hungry again......riiiight...... As soon as I sat down, he was all over them! Some kind of yellow cake with chocolate frosting cut into a rectangle and this other thing shaped like an giant orange slice, 2 layers of cake with orange goo in the middle drenched in sugar glaze. That was lunch..... Managed to accidentally make my way into then kitchen looking for the bathroom. That caused a stir, but I immediately knew I was in the wrong place!
Zooming from sangria and sugar we walked to the bull ring where you can tour the Matador museum and the bull ring. The tour guide walks you through the history of bull fighting, the traditions, superstitions and eventually into the bull ring itself. Another overwhelming site. Bull fights run from April through the 2nd week of October so there was no chance of actually seeing one.
It was 90 degrees, hot, sunny and time for a siesta. Everything is within decent walking distance which makes things easy. Finding the hotel - not so much. The streets are narrow, most of them don't cars. Scooters, yes and you need to make sure and find an alcove, steps or plant yourself up against the wall of a building so you don't get hit. Our hotel is in the deep bowels of the Santa Cruz neighborhood. The twistiest maze of streets encountered so far. Getting lost is part of the beauty cause there are little restaurants everywhere. Stop, have a cerveza, a nosh and ask for directions. English is definitely not spoken here so well - they just yell something loudly and you have no idea what they just said. After about an hour of maneuvering through the cobblestone maze we finally found the hotel. I can not even begin to describe the room. You will need to wait for photos. But instead of climbing over Jud in a double bed and taking 1 step to the bathroom the size of a broom closet, we have a giant bed, room and the potty is nicer then the one I have at home.
We got out for dinner around 8ish when most people are venturing out for the evening. Again, the streets are full of people outside, sidewalks full of tables, people eating, standing, drinking and having an overall good time. We came upon a little place which caught our eye so we sat down. To clarify, in Spain - you don't need to check in with a cranky host/hostess, you pick your seat and just sit down. It's yours and someone shows up to take your drink order.
We ordered oxtail stew, garlic prawns, grilled goat cheese w/honey and bacon wrapped tenderloin on sticks. Another incredible meal.
Seville is for strolling so we did just that for the next few hours.
Today is another sunny and 90 degree day. Stay tuned!
Sent from my iPad
I remembered there were 2 pastry shops with large and long cases that went on forever filled with Andalusian goodies. Stuff I'd never seen before. Found one of them but kept walking cause we were thirsty and looking for something to drink. Did I mention there is booze everywhere all the time? Wallah we came across the other pastry shop! It was across the street from a place Amanda and I had lunch one afternoon and we had the most amazing bottle of wine - El Buzo. Anyway we stepped into the pastry shop, Jud ordered a pitcher of sangria and I went to pick out some goodies. Jud announcing he was not hungry again......riiiight...... As soon as I sat down, he was all over them! Some kind of yellow cake with chocolate frosting cut into a rectangle and this other thing shaped like an giant orange slice, 2 layers of cake with orange goo in the middle drenched in sugar glaze. That was lunch..... Managed to accidentally make my way into then kitchen looking for the bathroom. That caused a stir, but I immediately knew I was in the wrong place!
Zooming from sangria and sugar we walked to the bull ring where you can tour the Matador museum and the bull ring. The tour guide walks you through the history of bull fighting, the traditions, superstitions and eventually into the bull ring itself. Another overwhelming site. Bull fights run from April through the 2nd week of October so there was no chance of actually seeing one.
It was 90 degrees, hot, sunny and time for a siesta. Everything is within decent walking distance which makes things easy. Finding the hotel - not so much. The streets are narrow, most of them don't cars. Scooters, yes and you need to make sure and find an alcove, steps or plant yourself up against the wall of a building so you don't get hit. Our hotel is in the deep bowels of the Santa Cruz neighborhood. The twistiest maze of streets encountered so far. Getting lost is part of the beauty cause there are little restaurants everywhere. Stop, have a cerveza, a nosh and ask for directions. English is definitely not spoken here so well - they just yell something loudly and you have no idea what they just said. After about an hour of maneuvering through the cobblestone maze we finally found the hotel. I can not even begin to describe the room. You will need to wait for photos. But instead of climbing over Jud in a double bed and taking 1 step to the bathroom the size of a broom closet, we have a giant bed, room and the potty is nicer then the one I have at home.
We got out for dinner around 8ish when most people are venturing out for the evening. Again, the streets are full of people outside, sidewalks full of tables, people eating, standing, drinking and having an overall good time. We came upon a little place which caught our eye so we sat down. To clarify, in Spain - you don't need to check in with a cranky host/hostess, you pick your seat and just sit down. It's yours and someone shows up to take your drink order.
We ordered oxtail stew, garlic prawns, grilled goat cheese w/honey and bacon wrapped tenderloin on sticks. Another incredible meal.
Seville is for strolling so we did just that for the next few hours.
Today is another sunny and 90 degree day. Stay tuned!
Sent from my iPad
Sunday, October 30, 2011
On The Way To Seville
It's been a few days but I finally have some down time when I can write. We have been on the move constantly!
Friday nite we went to a place for dinner called El Calderon. It's a place that came highly recommended for it's rice dishes - namely paella. So we dove right in an ordered chicken and (mystery) seafood paella. Absolutely incredible. Our server spoke zero English but again, pointing comes in handy. The meal ended with this golden butterscotch tasting syrupy after dinner drink - no idea what it was and no one was able to tell us. It was in an unmarked bottle and probably a homemade concoction created in someone's bathtub.
We continued wandering the streets of Santa Ana Plaza. It was filled with the Friday dance clubbers. Techno blasting through the club doors into the streets. Big hair, ciggies and lots of heels. Right out of the 80's. At 2am the streets were more mobbed then ever. People still having dinner in the Plaza with lights and heat lamps. Does anyone sleep in this country?
Saturday we secured our car for when we return from Seville and begin the driving portion of this adventure. It was sunny and 70 so we were able to have a bite and a beer outside on the streets. A place called El Brilliente - Amanda and I ate there a few times. Same cranky waiter doing a drive by order and slamming your cerveza and food down on a table the size of a postage stamp. Part of the charm... Jud claimed he was not hungry but when they brought the grilled pork with melting manchego on a fresh baguette slathered with olive oil...he could not resist. Then we toured the Royal Palace. 2200 rooms of which only 24 are permitted to be seen. A gaudy monstrosity. One of the rooms was completely made out of porcelain. The King and Queens bedrooms were in separate wings. Hows that work?
Then the afternoon fun began. Wandering aimlessly back towards our hotel. Really had no idea where we were but kept following the narrow zig zagging streets stopping for a tapas and drinks along the way. Jud finally got to witness the 'let's order a glass of wine and the waiter brings the whole bottle and puts it on your table'. So, what you do? You drink the bottle!
We were up and out early this morning (I think it's Sunday) and now on the Ave train to Seville. Ave is a high speed mag lev train that will go about 200mph. I wish this iPad had a camera so I could take his picture. Face pressed up against the window like a little kid.....he likes the castles.
Seville was one of my favorite places. Very Don Juan like - flamenco dancing, Spanish guitar players in the streets, beautiful cathedrals and the bull ring.
Spain is full of little details which immediately catch your attention. It's incredibly clean. No trash and virtually no street people. Policia everywhere - cars, bikes and motorcycles - driving on the sidewalk if they want to. Every bill comes on a plate. Coffee spoons are tiny and used specifically for coffee. Every table has a cloth and water is often served in a wine glass Everyone drinks cerveza at all times of day - even for breakfast. The ladies are dressed to the 9's all day at every age and they are up late eating and drinking. The pharmacy is still open at midnight with their doors wide open. The bathroom lights come on automatically -but if you are in there long enough, they turn off. Good thing there are pictures of girls and boys on the bathroom doors cause you would never know which one to pick. And frankly, no one seems to care who uses what anyway. You order a drink, you get a free tapas. One could make it through the day virtually paying for no food but you would be sh$t faced.
Most doors open opposite of what we think they would do. I'm pushing when I should be pulling.
I've learned a few more words and phrases by accident. No bueno salida. No good exit. I manage to find myself trying to exit where you can only enter. Seems to be a big no no here!
Gotta go. We are almost there and I'm getting a little woozy writing and going backwards at 200 mph!
Sent from my iPad
Friday nite we went to a place for dinner called El Calderon. It's a place that came highly recommended for it's rice dishes - namely paella. So we dove right in an ordered chicken and (mystery) seafood paella. Absolutely incredible. Our server spoke zero English but again, pointing comes in handy. The meal ended with this golden butterscotch tasting syrupy after dinner drink - no idea what it was and no one was able to tell us. It was in an unmarked bottle and probably a homemade concoction created in someone's bathtub.
We continued wandering the streets of Santa Ana Plaza. It was filled with the Friday dance clubbers. Techno blasting through the club doors into the streets. Big hair, ciggies and lots of heels. Right out of the 80's. At 2am the streets were more mobbed then ever. People still having dinner in the Plaza with lights and heat lamps. Does anyone sleep in this country?
Saturday we secured our car for when we return from Seville and begin the driving portion of this adventure. It was sunny and 70 so we were able to have a bite and a beer outside on the streets. A place called El Brilliente - Amanda and I ate there a few times. Same cranky waiter doing a drive by order and slamming your cerveza and food down on a table the size of a postage stamp. Part of the charm... Jud claimed he was not hungry but when they brought the grilled pork with melting manchego on a fresh baguette slathered with olive oil...he could not resist. Then we toured the Royal Palace. 2200 rooms of which only 24 are permitted to be seen. A gaudy monstrosity. One of the rooms was completely made out of porcelain. The King and Queens bedrooms were in separate wings. Hows that work?
Then the afternoon fun began. Wandering aimlessly back towards our hotel. Really had no idea where we were but kept following the narrow zig zagging streets stopping for a tapas and drinks along the way. Jud finally got to witness the 'let's order a glass of wine and the waiter brings the whole bottle and puts it on your table'. So, what you do? You drink the bottle!
We were up and out early this morning (I think it's Sunday) and now on the Ave train to Seville. Ave is a high speed mag lev train that will go about 200mph. I wish this iPad had a camera so I could take his picture. Face pressed up against the window like a little kid.....he likes the castles.
Seville was one of my favorite places. Very Don Juan like - flamenco dancing, Spanish guitar players in the streets, beautiful cathedrals and the bull ring.
Spain is full of little details which immediately catch your attention. It's incredibly clean. No trash and virtually no street people. Policia everywhere - cars, bikes and motorcycles - driving on the sidewalk if they want to. Every bill comes on a plate. Coffee spoons are tiny and used specifically for coffee. Every table has a cloth and water is often served in a wine glass Everyone drinks cerveza at all times of day - even for breakfast. The ladies are dressed to the 9's all day at every age and they are up late eating and drinking. The pharmacy is still open at midnight with their doors wide open. The bathroom lights come on automatically -but if you are in there long enough, they turn off. Good thing there are pictures of girls and boys on the bathroom doors cause you would never know which one to pick. And frankly, no one seems to care who uses what anyway. You order a drink, you get a free tapas. One could make it through the day virtually paying for no food but you would be sh$t faced.
Most doors open opposite of what we think they would do. I'm pushing when I should be pulling.
I've learned a few more words and phrases by accident. No bueno salida. No good exit. I manage to find myself trying to exit where you can only enter. Seems to be a big no no here!
Gotta go. We are almost there and I'm getting a little woozy writing and going backwards at 200 mph!
Sent from my iPad
Friday, October 28, 2011
Rioja and Chocolate Cake.
Thursday night turned out to be quite fun. We went out way too 'touristy' early but managed to pick our way through the narrow complicated streets finding busy tapas bars filled with locals and stay out way too late. The beauty of tapas hopping is looking for places loaded with noisy atmosphere, people drinking, eating and generally a futbal game on TV. We must have hit 6 or 7....I think.... You get a drink, tapa, throw your trash on the floor, P and move on. (I love this country!). When you order a drink beer or wine the bring you a complimentary nosh of tapas - every time! We basically ate for free. Beer and wine are about $3/ glass and both are incredible. We wound up talking to a local couple for several hours. Well, kinda talking. We all did alot of pointing, nodding and trying to interpret what one another was saying. It was a lot of fun! And it started all over a giant leg of pig harnessed in the carving contraption with the hoof still on.
We did not get moving till almost 11 am today. It was catch upon the sleep time. We made our way to the Prado museum. A giant fortress built in the early 1500's housing some of the worlds most rare art collection. A lot of Renaissance artists, religious themes, boobs everywhere and somewhat disturbing themes too. But that's art I suppose. I can't even draw anything recognizable when playing pictionary so what do I know! Wound our way to the Plaza Mayor fir some lunch (ham, calamari and manchego) beer and wine. Then walked back to the hotel stopping a few times for more cervesa Rioja and eventually some chocolate cake.
Took a 4 hour siesta and now we are attempting to get ourselves together for the evening. It's about 9 pm now.
Jud has requested a 'meal' style sit down dinner. Not easy to find - and finding anything 'green' is nearly impossible. We did get a serving of broad beens with ham as one of our complimentary tapas (yuk) Jud ate them all!! I think he's had enough ham, standing up to eat and missing veggies. I of course will happily graze my way through this entire vacation!
Till tomorrow - TTFN!
Sent from my iPad
We did not get moving till almost 11 am today. It was catch upon the sleep time. We made our way to the Prado museum. A giant fortress built in the early 1500's housing some of the worlds most rare art collection. A lot of Renaissance artists, religious themes, boobs everywhere and somewhat disturbing themes too. But that's art I suppose. I can't even draw anything recognizable when playing pictionary so what do I know! Wound our way to the Plaza Mayor fir some lunch (ham, calamari and manchego) beer and wine. Then walked back to the hotel stopping a few times for more cervesa Rioja and eventually some chocolate cake.
Took a 4 hour siesta and now we are attempting to get ourselves together for the evening. It's about 9 pm now.
Jud has requested a 'meal' style sit down dinner. Not easy to find - and finding anything 'green' is nearly impossible. We did get a serving of broad beens with ham as one of our complimentary tapas (yuk) Jud ate them all!! I think he's had enough ham, standing up to eat and missing veggies. I of course will happily graze my way through this entire vacation!
Till tomorrow - TTFN!
Sent from my iPad
Thursday, October 27, 2011
Hello Madrid!
Arrived @ 130 am home time - was 730 am here. 6 hour time difference. Turned out to be a beautiful day. Went to the hotel,(that's a funny story) dropped off our bags, got a double shot of espresso and headed to a museum - the Renia Sofia. Lots of Dali and Picasso's famous Guerneka painting. Its a creepy big old hospital turned into a museum - that in itself is an exhibit. Wasting no time and working on 2 hrs sleep! Its 3 pm here so its siesta time now. Will nappie a few hours, shower and hit the town for some traditional grub and wine. So many little places to grab a tapas, wine and move on to the next and hopefully find our way back to the hotel. And also hopefully keep J awake and upright on the bar stools since dinner generally does not get going till after 10 pm.
Tomorrow we plan to hit the Prado museum early.
Hotel funny story - its on a tiny cobblestone side street where 1 car can barley get down. Most of the side streets are like that - intertwined like a maze. The hotel or hostal is on the 3rd floor of an old building. The elevator is this tinky thing that looks like a phone booth, 2 gated doors and its 'open' shafted. Something out of a 1920 horror movie and incredibly small. J would not get in it! I did, was not schleping bags 3 flights of stairs!! He did eventually get in it with me - we could both barley fit and he had to crouch the whole time.
Our room is very clean but very small. About the size of a sm bedroom. Double bed. 1 giant long pillow. J's feet are handing off the bottom-lol.
Enough for now - I'm deliriously tired....
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
Tomorrow we plan to hit the Prado museum early.
Hotel funny story - its on a tiny cobblestone side street where 1 car can barley get down. Most of the side streets are like that - intertwined like a maze. The hotel or hostal is on the 3rd floor of an old building. The elevator is this tinky thing that looks like a phone booth, 2 gated doors and its 'open' shafted. Something out of a 1920 horror movie and incredibly small. J would not get in it! I did, was not schleping bags 3 flights of stairs!! He did eventually get in it with me - we could both barley fit and he had to crouch the whole time.
Our room is very clean but very small. About the size of a sm bedroom. Double bed. 1 giant long pillow. J's feet are handing off the bottom-lol.
Enough for now - I'm deliriously tired....
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)