Monday was beautiful - 80 and abundant sunshine. We strolled to the Cathedral early to beat the crowds. There was already a line at 10 am but figured either wait now or wait later. They shuffle you through gift shop #1 in case you want to purchase something in advance like rosary beads or whatnot. The Cathedral is massive. Every room and alcove more beautiful and ornate then the next. Jud climbed the bell tower while I chilled in one of the shrine benches - 330 feet up and a 360 view of the city. I had already done it and remember the miserable climb so I opted to sit this one out.
Then we walked across the bridge to a neighborhood called Triana. The river side of the street is lined with checkered table cloths and chalkboard menus of the days eats and the other side of the street holds the kitchen. Servers run back and forth across the street between table and kitchen avoiding the cars, scooters and bikes. We sat outside going from place to place tasting and soaking the local neighborhood flavor. We were entertained by an impromptu break out of flamingo dancing and Spanish guitar strumming. All for a donation of course but certainly worth dropping some change into their bag. We came upon the couple again when we got kinda sideways on one of the back streets. They were divvying up the days money take. Funny.
We returned to the other side of the bridge, stopped for some coffee and pastry (of course) and then headed to the shopping district. Came upon an open market and open stands filled with chorizo, cheese, ham, bread and more pastries. Temping but we passed and opted to head deep into another corn maze of narrow streets and shops. It was about 2 pm and guess what?! Siesta time! Closed! Had to laugh - it was the first time we've bumped into the tradition of the siesta closing.
After our seista we headed out for dinner around 9 pm, prime time! Another amazing meal and wine. I had lamb- Jud had pasta and we shared a super old bottle of Rioja to celebrate Jud's birthday.
Tonight the streets were full of people and street singers playing spanish guitar, tambourines and singing Spanish songs. Even back in our room we were serenaded for hours listening to the singing and music. I think they finally wore themselves out about 2:30 am.....
One of the coolest things I think about traveling is emerging yourself as a local. The beer might be warm, no ice and there is not a pad or stick of butter to be found in Seville and I won't even go into the bathroom situation here in the south..... But the point is to step inside their world and take it all in.
Today (Tuesday) is All Saints Day. The church bells have been ringing constantly all morning. Can't wait to see what today brings.
Sent from my iPad
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Monday, October 31, 2011
No Bull
Ave train ride was super easy and we didn't waste any time. Taxi'd to the hotel, dropped off the bags and headed out to see some sights. The center of the universe here in Seville is the Cathedral. If you ever get lost (and you will....) go back to center, the Cathedral and you should be able to find your way. We went straight to the Cathedral so could get my bearings and it's exactly as I remember. Massive, very 'old' but a powerful presence. There are ladies who circle the church holding fresh rosemary and 'offering' them to you as good luck. Then they accost you for money and are very aggressive about it. So far only once has one of them gotten too close, in my space and after 3 or 4 loud NO's did I have to give her a little shove. Can't wait for more!
I remembered there were 2 pastry shops with large and long cases that went on forever filled with Andalusian goodies. Stuff I'd never seen before. Found one of them but kept walking cause we were thirsty and looking for something to drink. Did I mention there is booze everywhere all the time? Wallah we came across the other pastry shop! It was across the street from a place Amanda and I had lunch one afternoon and we had the most amazing bottle of wine - El Buzo. Anyway we stepped into the pastry shop, Jud ordered a pitcher of sangria and I went to pick out some goodies. Jud announcing he was not hungry again......riiiight...... As soon as I sat down, he was all over them! Some kind of yellow cake with chocolate frosting cut into a rectangle and this other thing shaped like an giant orange slice, 2 layers of cake with orange goo in the middle drenched in sugar glaze. That was lunch..... Managed to accidentally make my way into then kitchen looking for the bathroom. That caused a stir, but I immediately knew I was in the wrong place!
Zooming from sangria and sugar we walked to the bull ring where you can tour the Matador museum and the bull ring. The tour guide walks you through the history of bull fighting, the traditions, superstitions and eventually into the bull ring itself. Another overwhelming site. Bull fights run from April through the 2nd week of October so there was no chance of actually seeing one.
It was 90 degrees, hot, sunny and time for a siesta. Everything is within decent walking distance which makes things easy. Finding the hotel - not so much. The streets are narrow, most of them don't cars. Scooters, yes and you need to make sure and find an alcove, steps or plant yourself up against the wall of a building so you don't get hit. Our hotel is in the deep bowels of the Santa Cruz neighborhood. The twistiest maze of streets encountered so far. Getting lost is part of the beauty cause there are little restaurants everywhere. Stop, have a cerveza, a nosh and ask for directions. English is definitely not spoken here so well - they just yell something loudly and you have no idea what they just said. After about an hour of maneuvering through the cobblestone maze we finally found the hotel. I can not even begin to describe the room. You will need to wait for photos. But instead of climbing over Jud in a double bed and taking 1 step to the bathroom the size of a broom closet, we have a giant bed, room and the potty is nicer then the one I have at home.
We got out for dinner around 8ish when most people are venturing out for the evening. Again, the streets are full of people outside, sidewalks full of tables, people eating, standing, drinking and having an overall good time. We came upon a little place which caught our eye so we sat down. To clarify, in Spain - you don't need to check in with a cranky host/hostess, you pick your seat and just sit down. It's yours and someone shows up to take your drink order.
We ordered oxtail stew, garlic prawns, grilled goat cheese w/honey and bacon wrapped tenderloin on sticks. Another incredible meal.
Seville is for strolling so we did just that for the next few hours.
Today is another sunny and 90 degree day. Stay tuned!
Sent from my iPad
I remembered there were 2 pastry shops with large and long cases that went on forever filled with Andalusian goodies. Stuff I'd never seen before. Found one of them but kept walking cause we were thirsty and looking for something to drink. Did I mention there is booze everywhere all the time? Wallah we came across the other pastry shop! It was across the street from a place Amanda and I had lunch one afternoon and we had the most amazing bottle of wine - El Buzo. Anyway we stepped into the pastry shop, Jud ordered a pitcher of sangria and I went to pick out some goodies. Jud announcing he was not hungry again......riiiight...... As soon as I sat down, he was all over them! Some kind of yellow cake with chocolate frosting cut into a rectangle and this other thing shaped like an giant orange slice, 2 layers of cake with orange goo in the middle drenched in sugar glaze. That was lunch..... Managed to accidentally make my way into then kitchen looking for the bathroom. That caused a stir, but I immediately knew I was in the wrong place!
Zooming from sangria and sugar we walked to the bull ring where you can tour the Matador museum and the bull ring. The tour guide walks you through the history of bull fighting, the traditions, superstitions and eventually into the bull ring itself. Another overwhelming site. Bull fights run from April through the 2nd week of October so there was no chance of actually seeing one.
It was 90 degrees, hot, sunny and time for a siesta. Everything is within decent walking distance which makes things easy. Finding the hotel - not so much. The streets are narrow, most of them don't cars. Scooters, yes and you need to make sure and find an alcove, steps or plant yourself up against the wall of a building so you don't get hit. Our hotel is in the deep bowels of the Santa Cruz neighborhood. The twistiest maze of streets encountered so far. Getting lost is part of the beauty cause there are little restaurants everywhere. Stop, have a cerveza, a nosh and ask for directions. English is definitely not spoken here so well - they just yell something loudly and you have no idea what they just said. After about an hour of maneuvering through the cobblestone maze we finally found the hotel. I can not even begin to describe the room. You will need to wait for photos. But instead of climbing over Jud in a double bed and taking 1 step to the bathroom the size of a broom closet, we have a giant bed, room and the potty is nicer then the one I have at home.
We got out for dinner around 8ish when most people are venturing out for the evening. Again, the streets are full of people outside, sidewalks full of tables, people eating, standing, drinking and having an overall good time. We came upon a little place which caught our eye so we sat down. To clarify, in Spain - you don't need to check in with a cranky host/hostess, you pick your seat and just sit down. It's yours and someone shows up to take your drink order.
We ordered oxtail stew, garlic prawns, grilled goat cheese w/honey and bacon wrapped tenderloin on sticks. Another incredible meal.
Seville is for strolling so we did just that for the next few hours.
Today is another sunny and 90 degree day. Stay tuned!
Sent from my iPad
Sunday, October 30, 2011
On The Way To Seville
It's been a few days but I finally have some down time when I can write. We have been on the move constantly!
Friday nite we went to a place for dinner called El Calderon. It's a place that came highly recommended for it's rice dishes - namely paella. So we dove right in an ordered chicken and (mystery) seafood paella. Absolutely incredible. Our server spoke zero English but again, pointing comes in handy. The meal ended with this golden butterscotch tasting syrupy after dinner drink - no idea what it was and no one was able to tell us. It was in an unmarked bottle and probably a homemade concoction created in someone's bathtub.
We continued wandering the streets of Santa Ana Plaza. It was filled with the Friday dance clubbers. Techno blasting through the club doors into the streets. Big hair, ciggies and lots of heels. Right out of the 80's. At 2am the streets were more mobbed then ever. People still having dinner in the Plaza with lights and heat lamps. Does anyone sleep in this country?
Saturday we secured our car for when we return from Seville and begin the driving portion of this adventure. It was sunny and 70 so we were able to have a bite and a beer outside on the streets. A place called El Brilliente - Amanda and I ate there a few times. Same cranky waiter doing a drive by order and slamming your cerveza and food down on a table the size of a postage stamp. Part of the charm... Jud claimed he was not hungry but when they brought the grilled pork with melting manchego on a fresh baguette slathered with olive oil...he could not resist. Then we toured the Royal Palace. 2200 rooms of which only 24 are permitted to be seen. A gaudy monstrosity. One of the rooms was completely made out of porcelain. The King and Queens bedrooms were in separate wings. Hows that work?
Then the afternoon fun began. Wandering aimlessly back towards our hotel. Really had no idea where we were but kept following the narrow zig zagging streets stopping for a tapas and drinks along the way. Jud finally got to witness the 'let's order a glass of wine and the waiter brings the whole bottle and puts it on your table'. So, what you do? You drink the bottle!
We were up and out early this morning (I think it's Sunday) and now on the Ave train to Seville. Ave is a high speed mag lev train that will go about 200mph. I wish this iPad had a camera so I could take his picture. Face pressed up against the window like a little kid.....he likes the castles.
Seville was one of my favorite places. Very Don Juan like - flamenco dancing, Spanish guitar players in the streets, beautiful cathedrals and the bull ring.
Spain is full of little details which immediately catch your attention. It's incredibly clean. No trash and virtually no street people. Policia everywhere - cars, bikes and motorcycles - driving on the sidewalk if they want to. Every bill comes on a plate. Coffee spoons are tiny and used specifically for coffee. Every table has a cloth and water is often served in a wine glass Everyone drinks cerveza at all times of day - even for breakfast. The ladies are dressed to the 9's all day at every age and they are up late eating and drinking. The pharmacy is still open at midnight with their doors wide open. The bathroom lights come on automatically -but if you are in there long enough, they turn off. Good thing there are pictures of girls and boys on the bathroom doors cause you would never know which one to pick. And frankly, no one seems to care who uses what anyway. You order a drink, you get a free tapas. One could make it through the day virtually paying for no food but you would be sh$t faced.
Most doors open opposite of what we think they would do. I'm pushing when I should be pulling.
I've learned a few more words and phrases by accident. No bueno salida. No good exit. I manage to find myself trying to exit where you can only enter. Seems to be a big no no here!
Gotta go. We are almost there and I'm getting a little woozy writing and going backwards at 200 mph!
Sent from my iPad
Friday nite we went to a place for dinner called El Calderon. It's a place that came highly recommended for it's rice dishes - namely paella. So we dove right in an ordered chicken and (mystery) seafood paella. Absolutely incredible. Our server spoke zero English but again, pointing comes in handy. The meal ended with this golden butterscotch tasting syrupy after dinner drink - no idea what it was and no one was able to tell us. It was in an unmarked bottle and probably a homemade concoction created in someone's bathtub.
We continued wandering the streets of Santa Ana Plaza. It was filled with the Friday dance clubbers. Techno blasting through the club doors into the streets. Big hair, ciggies and lots of heels. Right out of the 80's. At 2am the streets were more mobbed then ever. People still having dinner in the Plaza with lights and heat lamps. Does anyone sleep in this country?
Saturday we secured our car for when we return from Seville and begin the driving portion of this adventure. It was sunny and 70 so we were able to have a bite and a beer outside on the streets. A place called El Brilliente - Amanda and I ate there a few times. Same cranky waiter doing a drive by order and slamming your cerveza and food down on a table the size of a postage stamp. Part of the charm... Jud claimed he was not hungry but when they brought the grilled pork with melting manchego on a fresh baguette slathered with olive oil...he could not resist. Then we toured the Royal Palace. 2200 rooms of which only 24 are permitted to be seen. A gaudy monstrosity. One of the rooms was completely made out of porcelain. The King and Queens bedrooms were in separate wings. Hows that work?
Then the afternoon fun began. Wandering aimlessly back towards our hotel. Really had no idea where we were but kept following the narrow zig zagging streets stopping for a tapas and drinks along the way. Jud finally got to witness the 'let's order a glass of wine and the waiter brings the whole bottle and puts it on your table'. So, what you do? You drink the bottle!
We were up and out early this morning (I think it's Sunday) and now on the Ave train to Seville. Ave is a high speed mag lev train that will go about 200mph. I wish this iPad had a camera so I could take his picture. Face pressed up against the window like a little kid.....he likes the castles.
Seville was one of my favorite places. Very Don Juan like - flamenco dancing, Spanish guitar players in the streets, beautiful cathedrals and the bull ring.
Spain is full of little details which immediately catch your attention. It's incredibly clean. No trash and virtually no street people. Policia everywhere - cars, bikes and motorcycles - driving on the sidewalk if they want to. Every bill comes on a plate. Coffee spoons are tiny and used specifically for coffee. Every table has a cloth and water is often served in a wine glass Everyone drinks cerveza at all times of day - even for breakfast. The ladies are dressed to the 9's all day at every age and they are up late eating and drinking. The pharmacy is still open at midnight with their doors wide open. The bathroom lights come on automatically -but if you are in there long enough, they turn off. Good thing there are pictures of girls and boys on the bathroom doors cause you would never know which one to pick. And frankly, no one seems to care who uses what anyway. You order a drink, you get a free tapas. One could make it through the day virtually paying for no food but you would be sh$t faced.
Most doors open opposite of what we think they would do. I'm pushing when I should be pulling.
I've learned a few more words and phrases by accident. No bueno salida. No good exit. I manage to find myself trying to exit where you can only enter. Seems to be a big no no here!
Gotta go. We are almost there and I'm getting a little woozy writing and going backwards at 200 mph!
Sent from my iPad
Friday, October 28, 2011
Rioja and Chocolate Cake.
Thursday night turned out to be quite fun. We went out way too 'touristy' early but managed to pick our way through the narrow complicated streets finding busy tapas bars filled with locals and stay out way too late. The beauty of tapas hopping is looking for places loaded with noisy atmosphere, people drinking, eating and generally a futbal game on TV. We must have hit 6 or 7....I think.... You get a drink, tapa, throw your trash on the floor, P and move on. (I love this country!). When you order a drink beer or wine the bring you a complimentary nosh of tapas - every time! We basically ate for free. Beer and wine are about $3/ glass and both are incredible. We wound up talking to a local couple for several hours. Well, kinda talking. We all did alot of pointing, nodding and trying to interpret what one another was saying. It was a lot of fun! And it started all over a giant leg of pig harnessed in the carving contraption with the hoof still on.
We did not get moving till almost 11 am today. It was catch upon the sleep time. We made our way to the Prado museum. A giant fortress built in the early 1500's housing some of the worlds most rare art collection. A lot of Renaissance artists, religious themes, boobs everywhere and somewhat disturbing themes too. But that's art I suppose. I can't even draw anything recognizable when playing pictionary so what do I know! Wound our way to the Plaza Mayor fir some lunch (ham, calamari and manchego) beer and wine. Then walked back to the hotel stopping a few times for more cervesa Rioja and eventually some chocolate cake.
Took a 4 hour siesta and now we are attempting to get ourselves together for the evening. It's about 9 pm now.
Jud has requested a 'meal' style sit down dinner. Not easy to find - and finding anything 'green' is nearly impossible. We did get a serving of broad beens with ham as one of our complimentary tapas (yuk) Jud ate them all!! I think he's had enough ham, standing up to eat and missing veggies. I of course will happily graze my way through this entire vacation!
Till tomorrow - TTFN!
Sent from my iPad
We did not get moving till almost 11 am today. It was catch upon the sleep time. We made our way to the Prado museum. A giant fortress built in the early 1500's housing some of the worlds most rare art collection. A lot of Renaissance artists, religious themes, boobs everywhere and somewhat disturbing themes too. But that's art I suppose. I can't even draw anything recognizable when playing pictionary so what do I know! Wound our way to the Plaza Mayor fir some lunch (ham, calamari and manchego) beer and wine. Then walked back to the hotel stopping a few times for more cervesa Rioja and eventually some chocolate cake.
Took a 4 hour siesta and now we are attempting to get ourselves together for the evening. It's about 9 pm now.
Jud has requested a 'meal' style sit down dinner. Not easy to find - and finding anything 'green' is nearly impossible. We did get a serving of broad beens with ham as one of our complimentary tapas (yuk) Jud ate them all!! I think he's had enough ham, standing up to eat and missing veggies. I of course will happily graze my way through this entire vacation!
Till tomorrow - TTFN!
Sent from my iPad
Thursday, October 27, 2011
Hello Madrid!
Arrived @ 130 am home time - was 730 am here. 6 hour time difference. Turned out to be a beautiful day. Went to the hotel,(that's a funny story) dropped off our bags, got a double shot of espresso and headed to a museum - the Renia Sofia. Lots of Dali and Picasso's famous Guerneka painting. Its a creepy big old hospital turned into a museum - that in itself is an exhibit. Wasting no time and working on 2 hrs sleep! Its 3 pm here so its siesta time now. Will nappie a few hours, shower and hit the town for some traditional grub and wine. So many little places to grab a tapas, wine and move on to the next and hopefully find our way back to the hotel. And also hopefully keep J awake and upright on the bar stools since dinner generally does not get going till after 10 pm.
Tomorrow we plan to hit the Prado museum early.
Hotel funny story - its on a tiny cobblestone side street where 1 car can barley get down. Most of the side streets are like that - intertwined like a maze. The hotel or hostal is on the 3rd floor of an old building. The elevator is this tinky thing that looks like a phone booth, 2 gated doors and its 'open' shafted. Something out of a 1920 horror movie and incredibly small. J would not get in it! I did, was not schleping bags 3 flights of stairs!! He did eventually get in it with me - we could both barley fit and he had to crouch the whole time.
Our room is very clean but very small. About the size of a sm bedroom. Double bed. 1 giant long pillow. J's feet are handing off the bottom-lol.
Enough for now - I'm deliriously tired....
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
Tomorrow we plan to hit the Prado museum early.
Hotel funny story - its on a tiny cobblestone side street where 1 car can barley get down. Most of the side streets are like that - intertwined like a maze. The hotel or hostal is on the 3rd floor of an old building. The elevator is this tinky thing that looks like a phone booth, 2 gated doors and its 'open' shafted. Something out of a 1920 horror movie and incredibly small. J would not get in it! I did, was not schleping bags 3 flights of stairs!! He did eventually get in it with me - we could both barley fit and he had to crouch the whole time.
Our room is very clean but very small. About the size of a sm bedroom. Double bed. 1 giant long pillow. J's feet are handing off the bottom-lol.
Enough for now - I'm deliriously tired....
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Birthday Dinner Love
It's my father in laws birthday. Instead of dragging the clan out for dinner, we are taking dinner to the clan. I've discovered bringing a meal to the birthday guest is very much appreciated and a super relaxing way to spend the evening. We needed something we could make ahead of time and travels easily. A traveling appetizer, one pot main dish, vegetable and dessert. The host (my mother in law in this case)will supply the beverages and minor details like setting the table, party napkins and plates. Once I found out how many guests were coming and if there were any food aversions or allergies - I went to work on the simple menu.
Shrimp cocktail; Beef Bourguignon; Roasted Brussels; crusty bread; key lime pie and mini lemon meringue pies. Now don't be intimidated by the Beef Bourguignon - it's not hard to make. It just takes time. The key is not to 'rush' the dish - one step at a time. And you can make it a few days a head of time, reheat on top of the stove and just add more beef stock if the dish becomes too thick. For simplicity I chose to travel with a crusty bread as the starch. But egg noodles, boiled potatoes, rice or creamy mashed potatoes are a nice accomplice as well.
Shrimp cocktail; Beef Bourguignon; Roasted Brussels; crusty bread; key lime pie and mini lemon meringue pies. Now don't be intimidated by the Beef Bourguignon - it's not hard to make. It just takes time. The key is not to 'rush' the dish - one step at a time. And you can make it a few days a head of time, reheat on top of the stove and just add more beef stock if the dish becomes too thick. For simplicity I chose to travel with a crusty bread as the starch. But egg noodles, boiled potatoes, rice or creamy mashed potatoes are a nice accomplice as well.
Sunday, March 13, 2011
Weekend Dish - Freezer Clean Out.
Here's what we are going to make today. Seared duck breast with Pomegranate sauce, baby arugula salad with lemon olive oil dressing and Israeli couscous with Grana Padano cheese and chives.
So start digging deep into your freezer and your pantry. I know you've got stuff in there screaming to be cooked! Maybe not a duck breast but chicken, veggies, left overs from the holidays - you know it's in there! And who can afford to throw food out when gas prices are about to hit $4/gallon or more for summer. Find a frozen or pantry main igredient and Google your way through a recipe.
Its a great way to have some fun with food while saving money cause you probably have most everything that you need at your finger tips!
Duck Breast with Pomegranate Sauce and Arugula Salad.
Ingredients
Salad:
2 handfuls of baby arugula
4 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Squeeze of fresh lemon to taste
Throw in some of your favorite cheese if you like (I used grated Parmesan Romano)
Toss
Pomegranate Sauce:
1 cup pomegranate juice
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Duck:
2 (4 to 6-ounce) duck breasts
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
Directions
For the sauce: In a small saucepan over medium heat, cook the pomegranate juice, vinegar, and sugar for 10 to 12 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the cinnamon, and cook for an additional 4 to 5 minutes, allowing the sauce to thicken to almost a syrup consistency. Once reduced, remove the sauce from the heat, whisk in the butter, allowing the butter to fully incorporate into the sauce. Hold at room temperature.
For the duck: Place the duck breasts on a cutting board, skin-side down, and slice from top to bottom into 6 or 7 (1/8-inch) thick slices. Cut the fat only - try and stay away from the flesh. Season with salt and pepper on both sides. Heat the oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat until wisps of smoke appear. Sear duck fat side down for 4 minutes or until skin is crips. Turn over and sear duck breast on non fat side for another 4 - 5 minutes till medium rare. Remove from pan, place on a cutting board, let rest for 5 mintues and slice at an angle.
Couscous
Follow preparation directions on couscous container
Add a little olive oil to the water before adding couscous. You can also use chicken stock instead of water - gives the couscouse a nice rich flavor.
Meanwhile, saute 1/4 of sweet onion in large frying pan in olive oil till tender. When couscous is done cooking in the water/chicken stock - add to frying pan/onion mixture and cook for another few minutes.
Then add:
3 tablespoons of butter
Add 1/2 grated cheese
Salt, pepper and chives to taste.
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