Tuesday was our last day in Seville. We slept in since we were up way late and there was music, singing and dancing in our street for most of the night. Big street party that went on till almost 3 am.
We spent the day roaming the streets and getting lost. Well, you are never really 'lost' cause the town is not that big. You either run into the river or the Cathedral and then you know where you are. And there is always a friendly non threatening person to help if you're completely confused.
Pastry and espresso for breakfast - eggs with tuna/tomato and Andalusian gazpacho for lunch. Sangria all around. Yes the food is weird and the diet is hard on the American innards. But these people eat pastry, drink espresso, sugar, sugar, sugar, bread, cheese, olive oil and ham, smoke like chimneys, drink wine or beer at every meal (even breakfast) eat dinner at damn near midnight and are not overweight. Trying to keep up with them is a huge challenge and a hell of a lot of fun!
After siesta we decided to stick close to the hotel for our evening adventure. After all, the party seems to be only steps away and I was hoping not to have to pull a map out or leave peanuts along the way so we could find our way back after multiple libations.
We sat down outside in a courtyard loaded with fully set tables - china, silverware, wine and water glasses. What- glass - outside? Of course! Drinking anything from plastic especially wine is a travesty!
The waiters are always men. The ladies are often behind the bar or sometimes no where to be found. Maybe behind the pastry counter but food service appears to be a mans thing here.
I had the baby lamb chops, Jud had the roast suckling pig, bottle of wine and then a nightcap. Off to bed as we had an early train back to Madrid where we picked up a car and headed to Leon.
While the rest of you are sleeping and it's already the next day here, we were up, out and back on the Ave ( ahh-vay) train. It was a Sunday when we took the Ave train to Seville and our coach was empty - we had the whole thing to ourselves. Heading back to Madrid it was a Wednesday. The coach was full of business travelers, cell phones ringing, talking, some shouting and newspapers rustling. All the things I've been so happy to get away from. We've not turned on the TV, read the news or discussed our 'in common' profession for a week. I could not wait to get off the train.....
Renting a car was really simple. A passport, drivers license and a credit card. Sign on the dotted line, here's your English copy, the keys, a map, your gas cap location and off you go.
Getting out of Madrid was a little tricky but once we were on the highway, it was easy. Lots of service stations, pottys and places to grab a bite. The first part of our driving adventure is from Madrid to Leon. About 200 miles north west towards the coast. Remnants of old castles, churches, fortresses and look out towers all along. Grapes growing to the left and cattle grazing to the right. Mountains all around and most of the land is untouched.
We arrived in Leon smack dab in the middle of siesta time which was good cause there was little traffic. Jud dutifully had printed detailed road maps so we could navigate our way in and out of the town. Road signs were sparse and they love their roundabouts. The old Jersey circles as we know them. And who needs lines on the roads - cars just go wherever. Good thing we are driving something the size of a roller-skate.
We are staying at Parador San Marco. It's an old monastery turned Hotel. There are 100 Paradors all over Spain. Old castles, forts, prisons and monasteries turned into 3, 4, and 5 star hotels. Think of the Royal Palace on steroids with crosses, statues of various saints and the ability to freely explore every room nook and cranny. In the dark using a cell phone for light. You will have to wait for the photos - I can't even begin to explain it further.
Leon is a old traditional town. Not much to really explore here except the local cuisine and wine. There is an Old Town section filled with tapas bars and locals but it was raining and at least a 20 minute walk. Jud will be tapas terrorized over the next few days so we decided it would be better to have a sit down meal at the Parador. The bar opens at 7 pm and the restaurant at 9 pm. Old school - siesta, drink no earlier then 7 and eat no earlier then 9. It will be like this the remainder of our trip. Welcome to the north.
After wine, cervesa, manhattan and manchego it was time to sit down in the dining room. Mealtime is more of an event in the north then any other place I remember. It's meant to be savored slowly and with lots of wine, wine and more wine. And when you think you just can't take it anymore, have another glass. At this juncture, Rioja is running through my veins and Betty Ford is only a phone call away.
The dining room is like a banquet hall. Black and white checkered floor, table clothes and all the male servers in black formal dress. The menu is loaded with regional dishes and they have a pre fix menu of nothing but regional dishes which is what I opted for. Jud ordered the black pudding and the veal cheek loin. I had leeks w/olive oil vinaigrette, pumpkin cream soup w/local cheese curds, roast breast of veal and rice pudding. One of the most amazing meals of my life. 2 hour or so later we stumbled through the Parador finding more shrines, passageways, outdoor courtyard with ginormous stone columns. The only rule - don't smoke and close the outside doors. Otherwise, have at it.
Our room was very nice, hot shower with elephant style water pressure, finally a (double) sink with a ledge so my stuff was not constantly falling on the floor, 2 double beds pushed together and a terrace.
Breakfast was included so up and out we were for coffee and more regional delicacies. You gotta love a country that starts their buffet line with pastry first it's 2/3 of the breakfast offering.
We are back in the roller skate today heading for Bilbao (200 miles) going north east of Leon into the mountainous Basque region. Jud's driving. I'm typing, taking pictures and clutching the map. Destination Silken Hotel across from the Guggenheim.
Gotta go We are almost there and I have to start paying attention. Adios!
Sent from my iPad
No comments:
Post a Comment